BridgetGallablog: If You Can't Stand the Heat. . .

Monday, July 9, 2007

If You Can't Stand the Heat. . .

How much longer can the celebrity chef craze last? When is one more celebrity chef one too many?

I'm undecided as to whether the chef-cum-tour guide phenomenon or amateur-cum-chef is worse. Neither one is really food-focused; both are entirely personality-driven, chef-in-your-face orgy of self-indulgence. I will admit to a certain soft spot for Anthony Bourdain, with his dry wit, fondness for smoking and drinking a lot, but still, his advice is hardly practical. But I think the whole genre took a step down with that Andrew Zimmern guy, who's basically just eating raw fish on TV, and it feels like reruns of "You Can't Do That On Television" in more exotic locales.

The flurry of amateur chef shows is perhaps more disturbing, in the same way that all "reality" TV shows are: if there are this many morons running around on TV, how many more must there be in real life? Layer upon layer of obnoxious personalities, uncalled-for weeping, complete unwillingness to take responsibility or make a decision. For sheer guilty pleasure, Hell's Kitchen is the best (worst?), but there's something intriguing about watching other celebrity chefs handicap the next one to join their ranks. I have little use for Top Chef's somewhat random celebrity panel.

Like the "cupcakes with publicists" phenomenon, reality-food-TV seems like another way to unnecessarily complicate what should be simple. Everybody loves food, and you'd love to think you'd cook it for yourself. But instead, you zap a SmartOnes in the microwave so you have time to watch Hell's Kitchen, and dream about cooking--and lots of other people make a whole lot more money in the process.

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Obsessions Du Jour

Brooklyn: A Novel, by Colm Toibin: This is a truly transporting read that gives a vivid, clear-eyed picture of a Brooklyn still shaped by ethnic identities and old-world ethics. The perspective of a young woman emigrating to Brooklyn from Ireland at mid-century is both pragmatic and poetic -- she sees things differently for better and for worse because of her outsider status, and in the end reminds us that no one has it all, but all can have hope.
Potenza: At this new, massive, downtown DC Italian American, the pizzas are good, the service is bad, the cocktails are awesome, and the appetizers (oysters, customizabile plates of salumi and cheese, arancine) are fabulous too. Near the Casa Bianca, the people-watching is sometimes the best option of all.
Columbia Firehouse: This is a pitch-perfect addition to Old Town -- classy and classic regional American cuisine, lots of locally sourced ingredients. The soaring Victorian space feels grand yet cozy thanks to thoughtful lighting and booth arrangements; an annex of exposed brick under a glass canopy gives the feel of the outdoors without the summer heat and humidity. Chocolate cake is a winner.
Roast This is a welcome newcomer to the downtown Detroit dining scene, especially if you're a carnivore. Options like carvings from the spit-roasted "beast of the day" and succulent bone-in filet mignon are served a l a carte and complemented by thoughtfully chosen and beautifully prepared sides like roasted asparagus, shaved zucchini, and a killer mac and cheese. Service is attentive although the dining room is little too hotel-corporate and a little too loud. Nice wine list with plenty of choices under $50 as well as copious opportunities to show off; skilfully made cocktails from the bar are a better bet -- a few of them feature absinthe.
Founding Farmers Love the concept; the execution needs work. In this comprehensively "green" restaurant, lovely, locally-sourced ingredients meet ho-hum preparations in an exceedingly good-looking and extremely noisy space. Anyone who pairs that many entrees with mashed potatoes is, to my mind, kind of a lazy cook. But I do harbor a soft spot for nice places that are downtown but not corporate, make their own bitters and serve an impressive cheese plate, so I'll give them another chance.
True Blood In moments of candor, I will admit to my fascination with this program being attributable almost entirely to the fierce side tabs, southern accent and Edwardian features (in that order! In case you were wondering) of the vampire (superbly played by Brit Stephen Moyer). But if we're being analytic, I will say it is because of the writing and Alan Ball.
One Bullet Away: The Making of a Marine Officer, by Nathaniel C. Fick, was a real eye-opener for me. The writing is clear and lucid enough to render something I hadn't much thought about, and couldn't imagine--namely, training to be a Marine officer, then leading his platoon into Afghanistan and Iraq--vividly clear and present. If more of our leaders could talk about war, and the collision of idealism, cynicism and pragmatism it provokes, as thoughtfully and articulately as Fick, the world would be a better place.
My iPod -- Wow. Just wow. I thought for sure this had to be overrated but now that I'm ripping and rediscovering the massive CD collection I amassed in the 90s, and am even able to take it wherever I go, I'm in a special state of listening bliss. Plus, I hate people sooo much less now that I never have to listen to them anymore. It's added years to my life.
How the Soldier Repairs the Gramophone -- I remember seeing coverage of the Balkan conflict on television as an adolescent and thinking how horrific it was to be witnessing not just conflict, but genocide, in Europe -- close enough to home to feel intensely freaked out about it. Sasa Stanisic fled Bosnia-Herzegovina with his family and his book, written alternately from the perspective of the adolescent boy trying to comprehend these events and the adult looking back and wondering what happened to those he left behind, adapts magic realism, absurdism and just plain gorgeous prose to try to make sense of the senseless.
Restaurant Week Enjoy fine dining in DC without having to whore yourself out to a pharmaceutical lobbyist! ($20.08 three-course lunches; $35.08 three-course dinners). Make your reservations now!